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Retaurant Review: Spire Restaurant

Located on the second floor of the funky boutique hotel, Nine-Zero, in Boston’s “ladder district”, Spire is definitely worth the splurge for any special occasion. Spire was recently named one of Food and Wine’s “Top 50 Hotel Restaurants”, just one of many accolades it has received in its past two years of operation.

The setting is eclectic-minimalist, a mix of trendy guests sipping cucumber martinis at the bar and suited businesspeople wining and dining their clients in the dining area. To start perhaps an intricate cocktail prepared by the smartly dressed bartenders, or maybe a glass of wine from the extensive list that covers a broad genre of both new world and old world wines.

The waitstaff is highly attentive, delivering a menu of modern-American food (with select Asian and European fusion) that will satisfy even the most sophisticated palate. Starters appease the tastebuds, from a Vidalia onion soup, three-basil salad, to heavier options such as the Spire Clam Bake, a m‚lange of lobster, clams, and chorizo, delicately presented in artistic pillared form on a large white plate. I opted for the Rhode Island Squid-tender squid marinated lightly and served with an Asian-infused salad of avocado, spicy cabbage, red onion, mint and peanuts-a superb balance of sweet and spicy with a touch of sour.

Chef Gabriel Frasca, formerly of Radius, outdoes himself with his main course offerings. Though the menu changes with the seasons, Frasca ensures a lamb dish is always available…and it is guaranteed to be one of the best in the city! The lamb loin on offer is cooked to perfection (medium-rare) over a bed of baby artichoke and a mixture of sweet tomato, fava bean, bacon and mint. For those who prefer a lighter alternative, the halibut is delivered steaming, moist and fleshy, with wild morels (small mushrooms bursting with flavor) and a side of ramp spatzle, a delicate dumpling infused with strong-flavored wild onions.

Make sure to save room for the phenomenal finale: the milk chocolate banana souffl‚ is pure indulgence, covered in a mountain of shaved chocolate with warm kona coffee cream poured into the soft center. It cannot be missed! The tasting dessert plate (for two) offers a selection of smaller treats for the over-indulgent and indecisive, including the signature corn panna cotta, apricot tart, and berry clafoutis.
Smooth service, excellent wine selection, and a range of brilliantly executed food make Spire a definite stop for any gastronomic aficionado.

Details:
Open 7 days a week for dinner; serves weekend brunch.
Dinner for two with wine will run upwards of $250.
90 Tremont Street
Boston, MA
(617) 772-0202

October 18, 2004
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